We usually think of coffee mostly as a beverage and maybe as a flavoring for ice cream or candy. Coffee, however, has a rich culinary history and has been used in a variety of ways, both sweet and savory.
Authorities seem to agree that coffee was first consumed in West Africa and the Middle East. There, it was first eaten whole, berry, bean and all, usually with some kind of fat or in combination with dried fruits and beans. The fermented pulp of the berry also was used to make a kind of wine.
The practice of roasting the beans to develop their aromatic flavors probably started in the 13th century. Alan Davidson, author of the encyclopedic “The Oxford Companion to Food” notes that in Yemen by the end of the 13th century, the beverage had acquired its familiar name, qahwah, which was a poetic name for wine. Coffee has many similarities to wine. The language to describe its flavors is similar and like wine, coffee varies tremendously in flavor and intensity depending on the place where it is grown.
No doubt the original appeal of coffee was the stimulating boost it offers from its caffeine content. At one time or another, it was called “the Devil’s brew” and condemned by clerics. Many decried coffee as a potent aphrodisiac.
The Vatican, among others, called coffee “Satan’s latest trap to catch Christian souls.” But Pope Clement VIII intervened and, according to legend, demanded to taste coffee and decide for himself. He liked it so much he decreed it was something Christianity should make its own. This probably is why, in Europe, coffee culture blossomed first in Italy (although some French dispute this).
Coffee has become such a fixture in American culture that it’s only natural we would begin to explore other uses for this deliciously complex product.
My first recollection of tasting coffee in a non-drink form was a recipe my grandmother used to make. Being of sturdy Scotch/Irish/German descent, she was genetically programmed to never waste anything. She used to take the coffee that had been on the heat too long (you know, that stuff that’s so strong the acids and bitterness could remove your teeth enamel) and turn it into a wonderful poaching liquid for fruits.
Poaching fruits in wine has been with us for a long time. Coffee has many of the same characteristics as wine, including rich flavor, good acidity and tannins, all nice foils for sweet fruits. I’ve included my grandmother’s recipe below, using pears. The poaching liquid is just as wonderful with other fruits, such as apples or bananas. You can use the liquid repeatedly. After awhile, it thickens to become the most delicious fruit-infused syrup that is tasty on pancakes, waffles and ice cream.
You can make this dish a day or two ahead, if you desire. I like it served warm or chilled.
Zest and juice of 2 medium oranges
8 medium firm-ripe pears, peeled and cored
Fresh orange segments, mint sprigs and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream, if desired, for garnish
In a large, wide nonreactive saucepan, combine the coffee, brown sugar, zest and juice of the oranges, ginger and cinnamon stick and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 4 minutes. Add the pears and return to a simmer. Gently simmer until the pears are cooked through and tender, testing the pears with a toothpick. The cooking time will vary greatly depending on the type and size of pear used. When they’re tender, remove from the heat. Strain 1 cup of the poaching liquid into a small saucepan. Leave the pears in their liquid while making the sauce.
Dissolve the cornstarch in the orange juice and add to the small saucepan containing the cup of poaching liquid. Bring to a simmer and cook for 2 minutes until lightly thickened. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.
Serve the pears sliced and fanned out in shallow bowls or on plates. Spoon some of the sauce over and around the slices. Garnish with 2 or 3 orange segments, mint sprigs and the whipped or ice cream.
I know this sounds pretty “cheffy,” but it’s simpler than you’d think. You can make the rub 3 days ahead and store in cool place, tightly covered. The sauce can be made a couple hours ahead and kept warm. Quail are available online. A good local source is devilsgulchranch.com, in Marin County. If quail are outside your budget, you can substitute 6 good-size skin-on chicken thighs.
½-inch piece of cinnamon stick
3 tablespoons freshly ground espresso coffee (ground very fine)
2 bunches spinach, washed well and stems removed
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. On a baking sheet, arrange in separate piles the sesame, peppercorns, coriander, cloves, juniper berries and cinnamon and toast until the sesame seeds are golden colored (about 8 minutes). Remove and with an electric coffee grinder, finely grind the toasted spices along with the bay leaf. Add the coffee, salt and sugar and continue grinding until mixture is finely ground. Turn up the oven heat to 450 degrees.
Lightly rub the quails with 2 tablespoons of olive oil and then rub with the spice mixture. Refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours. In a heavy ovenproof saute pan large enough to hold all the quail in a single layer, heat the remaining oil and brown the quail on all sides over moderate heat. This will take 4 to 5 minutes. Turn all quail breast side up and place in oven for 5 to 7 minutes to finish cooking. Test by inserting the point of a knife at the thigh joint. Juices should run clear, but the meat still should be slightly pink and juicy.
To serve: Quickly saute spinach with butter until just wilted. Season with salt and pepper and arrange in the middle of warm plates. Top with two quail and spoon vanilla sauce around.
3 cups flavorful quail or chicken stock
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
Saute the shallots and mushrooms in 1 tablespoon butter until soft but not brown. Add stock and wine and reduce by half over high heat, 8 to 10 minutes. Add cream and vanilla bean and reduce again to a light sauce consistency, about 5 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh strainer, pressing down on the solids. Scrape the soft center of the vanilla bean into the strained sauce and discard bean. Correct seasoning with drops of lemon juice, salt and pepper. Whisk in the remaining butter in bits. Hold the sauce in a warm water bath or thermos until serving time (up to 3 hours).
This rub is easy to make. Just rub beef, pork or lamb with a bit of olive oil and then massage in the rub. Allow to sit for an hour before grilling on a barbecue or in a stovetop ridged grilling pan.
Makes about ½ cup, enough for 4 good-size steaks
2 tablespoons finely ground dark-roast coffee
In a small bowl, mix all the ingredients thoroughly to break down the dark brown sugar into fine crystals.
Liberally sprinkle a thin layer of the rub onto the oil-brushed steak, then massage it in with your fingers so it adheres. Let sit for at least an hour at room temperature before grilling.
The great virtue of brisket of beef is that it’s marbled with fat between the connective tissue or collagen. This tissue, when cooked slowly in an oven or smoker or braised in a flavorful liquid, melts and the meat fiber softens to yield one of the most succulent pieces of meat imaginable. Brisket has become a very “in” cut and certainly one of the most versatile, whether part of a Kansas City or Texas barbecue, sliced for a Southeast Asian pho, simmered for an Italian bollito misto, corned for St. Patrick’s Day or pot roasted for Rosh Hashana.
This is one of my favorite recipes for this humble cut of meat. Like most stews or braises, it’s even better reheated the next day.
4 pounds brisket of beef, trimmed of excess fat, if necessary
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 large onions (1 ½ - 2 pounds), sliced
2 tablespoons (or more) ancho or chipotle chile powder
1 cup rich meat or mushroom stock
1 14½-ounce can diced tomatoes in juice
Add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil to a deep pot or Dutch oven and quickly brown the brisket on both sides, seasoning liberally with salt and pepper. Remove the meat from the pot, discard the fat and wipe out the pot.
Back on the stove, add the remaining oil and saute the onion and garlic until it just begins to color. Add the chile and saute for a minute more or until fragrant. Add the spices, sugar, vinegar, coffee, stock and tomatoes and bring to a simmer. Return meat to the pot, cover and place in a preheated 300-degree oven for 3 to 3 ½ hours or until meat is very tender.
Remove meat and set aside. Puree the braising liquids and vegetables until smooth and season to taste with salt and pepper. Return meat to the pan and add enough of the pureed sauce to not quite cover the meat. Return pot to oven and bake uncovered for 30 to 45 minutes more or until brisket is nicely glazed. Serve cut thinly across the grain or “pulled” (shredded), with the warm pureed sauce spooned over.
This recipe came from an old church cookbook I’ve lost track of. I still make it.
¾ cup firmly packed brown sugar
½ cup sweet red chile sauce
1 teaspoon sriracha or Tabasco sauce
Stir all ingredients in a medium saucepan. Bring to simmer then reduce heat to low until the flavor blends to your liking, about 40 minutes. Stir occasionally. Cool to room temperature and serve. Will keep for at least 2 weeks, covered in the refrigerator.
Sweetened condensed milk is the secret ingredient that gives this popular Spanish dessert its silky texture.
1 14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk (1 ¼ cups)
4 ½ teaspoons instant-coffee granules dissolved in 4 teaspoons hot water
Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Cook sugar in a dry small, heavy saucepan over moderate heat, undisturbed, until it begins to melt. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally with a fork, until sugar melts into a deep golden caramel. Immediately pour into a 9-inch round ceramic or glass baking dish or metal cake pan (2 inches deep) and tilt dish to coat bottom (use caution, dish will be hot). Cool until hardened, 10 to 15 minutes.
Blend remaining ingredients in a blender, in 2 batches if your blender is small, until smooth. Pour custard through a fine-mesh sieve over caramel in the dish, then transfer dish to a 17-inch-by-11-inch roasting pan lined with a kitchen towel. Cover the dish loosely with a piece of foil, then pour enough boiling-hot water into the roasting pan to reach 1 inch up the side of the dish. Bake until custard is set but still wobbly in center when gently shaken and a knife inserted in center comes out clean, 1 to 1 ¼ hours. Transfer dish to a rack to cool completely, about 40 minutes. Chill flan, covered, until cold, at least 8 hours.
To unmold flan, run a thin knife around the edge of the dish to loosen the flan. Invert a large platter with a lip over the dish. Holding dish and platter securely together, quickly invert and turn out flan onto platter. Caramel will pour out over and around the flan.
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