Hilda and Jesse serve a fluffy version of breakfast at North Beach-pass the bubbles! -7x7 Bay Area

2021-12-06 11:59:01 By : Mr. Joe Yao

The two veterans of Valencia Street Restaurant Range (now The Beehive) and Atelier Crenn and Avery’s Michelin-starred kitchen have found common ground in the most overlooked meal of the day, agreeing that breakfast deserves the same enthusiasm and Moved by the luxurious enjoyment of lunch and dinner.

After successfully making a brunch pop-up shop near San Francisco for many years, Compton (in charge of cooking) and Sillcocks (in charge of running the house) offered special treatment for breakfast at their first physical restaurant overlooking Washington Square Park.

Noz Nozawa's food for Hilda and Jesse evokes the spirit of food: nostalgic, but 100% fresh.

Designed by Noz Nozawa of Noz Designs (Avery, Fiat Lux), the space is colorful and highly accessible via Instagram to pay tribute to the 1950s restaurant-think of checkerboard floors and red vinyl bar stools-but no kitsch. In fact, it feels like what a breakfast shop should look like, with a blend of medieval and tropical flavors, presented in easy-to-welcome soft tones; the walls are covered with pink tiles or mint-colored stripes; local artist Maya Fuji's green leaf/nude mural; comfortable tufted benches; emerald milk glass chandeliers; and a framed family portrait by Daisy Patton.

All of this laid the foundation for true innovation: the innovative breakfast tasting menu consists of three dishes and is priced at $45. During my visit, this meant that the first dish was marinated trout with eggplant escabeche and charred zucchini sauce, then a savory porridge of chicken and brown butter, and finally nectar, a type with black sesame seeds and coconut Fluffy wheat "merringue" whipped cream. There are many a la carte dishes that can be ordered as shared add-ons. The popular borderless pancakes-the double-layered fluffy buttermilk cake with roasted cranberries and maple syrup-should not be missed.

It's easy to understand why Hilda and Jesse put their "avocado toast" in quotation marks: tempura sweet potatoes replaced bread, and the focus of this dish is plenty of horseradish and dill. (Timofei Osipenko)

Next time we visit, my husband and I will set our sights on their "avocado toast", which is made with tempura sweet potatoes instead of bread; potato pancakes with pork sausage, Latvian sauerkraut and apple sauce; and nostalgia The elementary school breakfast includes French toast sticks and maple shortbread ice cream.

A lot of tableware is also part of the charm of Hilda and Jesse, adding an extra element of surprise to each new dish on the table. After finding a set of Russell Wright’s modern American dinner plates, the chefs were inspired to purchase vintage dishes and cutlery to mix with modern works by Bauer Pottery, Mosser Glass and Fenway Clayworks.

The atmosphere that continues to celebrate is a drink list curated by "Guzzling Guarantor" James Butler, filled with sparkling wine. There are also a few low-alcohol cocktails, beer, cider, and even mead. Since brunch cannot be taken less, I also tried Hilda's ice coffee, which comes with malt and homemade oat milk.

All in all, Hilda and Jesse provide a familiar taste, but you can hardly find a place where you have eaten breakfast like this before.

// Hilda and Jesse serve dinner from 5:30-9:30 pm on Mondays, and breakfast from 9 am to 2 pm from Friday to Sunday; 701 Union St. (North Beach), hildaandjessesf.com.

Hilda and Jesse's manna reimagined wheat cream. (Timofei Osipenko)